You have your soil pH test results. (If you missed my page on testing for pH go here.) You know your soil is acidic or that it's alkaline. You might have a few questions like... why is the pH what it is, how does it affect your crops, and how can you adjust things to improve your soil.
A big part of soil pH is intrinsic to the soil and the climate where you live. In other words if you have a very high or low pH reading for your soil, it isn't necessarily because of something you did or something you have a lot of control over. The main causes are:
Most plants like a soil pH close to neutral or just a little on the acid side. A very high or very low pH can be toxic to the plants.
This graphic shows how soil pH affects the usual level of availablity of some of the nutrients your plants need. It also shows how some of the important members of the soil biological community respond to different pH levels.
In Acid soils calcium (Ca), and magnesium (Mg) are less available to plants. Aluminum (Al) and manganese (Mn) may reach toxic levels. Phosphorus is tied up by iron (Fe) and aluminum (Al). Bacteria grow poorly as well.
In Alkaline soils phosphorus (P) gets tied up by Ca and Mg. Iron (Fe), zinc (Zn) and manganese (Mn) are less available. Sometimes excess salts accumulate and potatoes are subject to bacterial diseases.
Have you noticed that Phosphorus is too fussy. It's not available if the soil is acidic and it's not available when the soil is alkaline. So when is phosphorus available.
Phosphorus is a critical nutrient, one of the big three. However, most additions of phosphorus fertilizers whether synthetic or organic tend to get tied up in the soil. Most plants form a relationship with mycorrhizal fungi. As you can see fungi tend to function through all ranges of pH. One of their most important functions is solubilizing phosphorus and channeling it to plants. In turn plants feed the fungi sugars. Check this page on phosphorus and fungi to learn more.
Compost is useful to add to soils regardless of whether you have acidic or alkaline soil. How can it do this? Compost is a buffering agent.
A buffer is a substance that tends to lessen the change in pH. Compost allows the soil pH to effectively range to one point above and below the pH reading for your soil. So for example, I have a pH of 8. Adding compost gives me a range of 7 to 9 pH. As 7 is in the ideal range for plants I've solved a good part of my pH problem with the compost.
Compost also inoculates the soil with a whole range of soil microbes. The organic matter both provides a habitat for the bacteria, fungi and others to make their homes and feeds them.
The most intense population of soil critters will be found right next to the roots and the mycorrhizal fungi attached to those roots. In healthy biologically active soil there will be a very diverse community of soil microbes feeding plants nutrients and being fed by plant exudates.
This community affects the soil pH, tending to neutralize pH levels in the rhizosphere. I have to check this out this summer with a few extra pH tests of the soils attached to the roots.
As your first step try compost. It can have a marked influence on acid soils. For example an EPA study showed that water with a pH of about 2 discharged from a mine had risen to a pH of 5 by the time it passed through a compost filter.
Go slowly. It is possible to use quick acting agents to radically change your soil pH. However, you risk wiping out your soil organisms and they are critical companions to your plants. Kill them and you effectively kill your soil.
Aim for raising your pH a maximum of 1 pH point per season. Lime is normally added to raise pH. You can use Calcitic or Dolomite Lime. Calcitic Lime adds only calcium to your soil while Dolomite lime adds calcium and magnesium. These will slowly change the pH. As well it will make phosphorus more available and increase the bacterial activity with the side effect of freeing nitrogen for your crop.
The amount you add depends on your soil texture. In sandy soils use less lime and apply it more often. Follow the directions on the lime you purchase but please go slow - give soil life a chance.
I've found that many gardening sites and books throw up their hands in defeat when faced with soil pH in the alkaline range. Personally I think it's that there are fewer people here in the dry areas where soils tend to be basic. These garden experts are not terribly motivated to solve this problem because they don't happen to have any experience of it. So they simply write soils with high pH off as impossible.
The other thing - and this concerns me - is that because lime is so routinely applied to soils in the heavily populated areas where soils are acidic you find lime for sale in garden centers where soils are alkaline. The other day I was at a big garden center in Calgary, an alkaline area, and found a huge display of bags of lime for sale. Many people from acid climes are moving here and naturally think their garden problems will be solved with lime. In fact they will be made a heck of a lot worse.
So - please do your soil tests before you try to fix your soil and then go slow in effecting changes. Give your soil biology a chance to adjust and adapt to the new conditions.
Your first line of action is compost. It does work to change the actual pH and to minimize the difficulties arising from a high pH.
To lower your soil's pH sulfur is your friend. It takes very little but it takes some time. The equation is sulfur + time + soil bacteria = a lowered pH. Again you will need less sulfur in sandy soils than in other soils so know your soil texture. Follow the directions that come with the material you purchase and don't try to change things more than one pH point per season.
I have an extra page for those wanting to lower their soil pH here.